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The Preval portable aerosol spray gun used in the G2 Brake Caliper Paint application video was a huge hit with our readers. I received quite a few questions about the process of removing brake calipers. It seems many of you want to know how difficult it is to remove your calipers to paint them…

It’s really not that difficult, so today I thought I would go over the process of removing and then re-installing your brake calipers properly and more importantly, safely.

For those of you who don’t know a Phillips screwdriver from a flat head, or a socket wrench from an allen wrench… The good news is the self leveling properties of our G2 Brake Caliper Paint make it perfect as a brush on application! Removing your brake calipers is in no way required! The thing is some guys enjoy wrenching on their cars over the weekend, and this post is geared more towards them.

Please remember safety should be your number one priority, so don’t smoke, or drink alcoholic beverages. And please be aware of your surroundings at all times… Keep an eye out for sharp instruments, hazardous materials and other potential safety hazards in and around your workspace.

And finally, if something goes wrong, or if you feel you are in over your head, seek the assistance of a professional mechanic or installer. Remember… SAFETY FIRST!

Removal:

1. Be sure to loosen the lugnuts on the wheel.
2. Raise and support vehicle with jack stands.
   Never attempt to work on a vehicle being supported only by a jack! Always place a jack stand under the vehicle. If the vehicle slips off of the jack, it could cause you serious injury or death!
3. Remove the vehicles wheel.
4. Loosen the caliper bolts. If your vehicle has a two piece caliper (ie: some late model GMs), loosen all necessary bolts before removing the caliper.
5. With your drain pan ready under the caliper, loosen the brake hose “banjo” bolt before removing the caliper. Being very careful to pay special attention to the hose position so it can be reinstalled the same way later.
   Brake fluid is corrosive! DO NOT spill any on your car or yourself.
6. Remove the brake caliper mounting bolts and remove the brake caliper from the steering knuckle.
7. Remove the “banjo” bolt that holds the brake hose to the brake caliper, and separate the brake caliper and the hose.
8. Once the hose is separated from the brake caliper, be sure any brake fluid still dripping from it, is caught in your drain pan.
9. Drain as much fluid as possible from the brake caliper. (Brake fluid will cause the G2 Brake Caliper Paint to not adhere to the caliper!)
10. Remove the brake pads, the shims, the anti-rattle clips and any other hardware from the brake caliper. You should never re-use shims or anti-rattle clips so you can dispose of these. The pads can be re-used, however since you have them off anyway… Isn’t now as godd a time to change them as any?
11. Then remove caliper bolts/sliders and rubber boots from your brake caliper and inspect them for wear and tear. If the bolts/sliders are stripped, pitted, rusty or otherwise damaged, or the boots are torn, it is best to replace them. This is also a great time to apply caliper lube to any parts that the brake caliper slides upon, and also to apply lube to the inside of the rubber boots or bushings that the sliders go through.
12. Once all hardware and parts have been removed from your brake caliper, and all of the brake fluid has been drained from it, you are ready to begin painting.

Detailed instructions for painting your brake calipers with G2 Brake Caliper Paint are available as well as a video depicting the application of G2 Brake Caliper Paint, simply search the Tips & Tricks category. Once you have applied the G2 Brake Caliper Paint color of your choice, and allowed your brake calipers to cure, it’s time to re-install them.

Installation:

1. Re-install the caliper bolts/sliders and rubber boots to your newly painted brake caliper.
2. Before you install the brake pads, you’ll want to make sure the caliper piston is compressed completely. This should be fairly easy with the brake caliper not attached to the brake hose, and no fluid in the brake caliper.
3. Once the brake caliper is compressed, you can install new shims, and anti-rattle clips. (Never reuse old shims or anti-rattle clips.)
4. Reattach the brake hose to the brake caliper, but don’t tighten it completely yet.
5. Install the brake pads onto the brake caliper, paying close attention to inboard and outboard brake pad position.
6. Apply Anti-Seize to brake caliper bolt threads, and install brake caliper. Be sure to use the proper torque setting on the caliper bolts.
7. Once the brake caliper is installed, move the brake hose into it’s original position and tighten to the proper torque.
8. Now you’ll need to “bleed” the system. This step is very important as it ensures you only have brake fluid in the brake lines and brake caliper. If there is any air in the system, it will compress when you step on the brake pedal giving a mushy feel to your brakes, and poor stopping performance. There are a couple of different ways to bleed brakes (Please refer to your service manual, as some newer vehicles with ABS systems require a specific bleeding process), but the result is the same. By using a one man vacuum style kit it can be done by one person. However I’ve found it’s best if you have a buddy able to lend a hand. If you’re using a one person brake bleeding kit, follow the instructions included with the kit. If a friend is able to help you, use the following guidelines
9. Fill the clear jar with 1-2 inches of new brake fluid. (Never re-use brake fluid!)
10. Using a clear 3/8” hose, 1-2 feet long, attach one end to the bleeder valve of the brake caliper, and place the other end directly into the brake fluid in the clear jar.
11. Top off the fluid in the brake master cylinder.
12. While you hold the hose onto the bleeder valve, loosen the brake bleeder valve.
13. Keep holding the hose on the bleeder valve, and have your buddy slowly press the brake pedal down. This will force brake fluid from the master cylinder through the lines, forcing the air and fluid through the caliper, and out the bleeder valve. You will see fluid and air bubbles coming out of the hose into the brake fluid in the jar. (Make sure the hose stays in the fluid in the jar to avoid any air going back up to the brake caliper.)
    
14. Check the master cylinder fluid level, and top off as needed.
15. Repeat the bleeding process until there are no air bubbles showing in the jar.
16. Once you are satisfied the system is free of air, have your buddy slowly step on the brake pedal one last time.
    As fluid is flowing into the clear jar, tighten the bleeder valve, then check your master cylinder fluid level again.
17. Double check all your torque settings and make sure everything has been reinstalled.
    Once you’re satisfied everything is complete and safe, install the wheel, lower the car and repeat for the other side.
18. Take the car for a test drive, slowly at first until you’re sure everything’s good.
    Once safely back home, re-check the brake fluid, and if everything looks good, you’re finished!

I told you it wasn’t that difficult! You might actually enjoy it… There is something very satisfying about working on your car. It gives you a great feeling of accomplishment!

As always if you have any questions or comments I’m always here to answer them, and I would love to see your results… You can submit installation pics to G2 here to be featured…

So…

What are you waiting for??? Go paint your calipers already!